Neither East Nor West: One Woman's Journey Through the Islamic Republic of Iran
Author: Christiane Bird
ISBN: 0671027565
Manufacturer: Washington Square Press
Customer Rating:




, based on 20 reviews
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Fusing travelogue, historical inquiry, and interviews with Iranians from all walks of life, Neither East Nor West is a landmark contribution to travel writing and to cultural studies, as well as a timely illumination of a nation deeply misunderstood by most Westerners. In describing life in Iran today, Christiane Bird, an American who spent part of her childhood there, breaks the silence that has surrounded Iran's culture -- unlike its politics -- for nearly twenty years.
Traveling alone and largely by bus, Bird journeys from the modern, bustling capital of Tehran to the medieval holy city of Qom, from the sacred pilgrimage site of Mashhad -- visited by more than twelve million Shi'ites annually -- to the isolated valley of Alamut, once home to the legendary cult of the Assassins. She visits mosques, public baths, Khomeini's former home, and a Caspian Sea resort, and attends prayer meetings and a horse racing meet. Along the way, she talks to muleteers and ayatollahs, Kurds and Turkomans, Westernized and traditional Iranians -- many of whom invite her home for a cup of tea.
The result is an astounding, insightful journey into the Islamic Republic of Iran -- in all its beauty, ferocity, and contradiction.
Customer Reviews:




However excellent the above point is, Bird seems to go somewhat against her own words by inserting an overly judgmental tone at a large number of points in the book, even going as far was outright complaining (thank goodness only in her narratives) about the Iranian lifestyle that she willingly chose to put herself into in order to write this travel log. The book really could have done without Bird's philosophical and often rhetorical musings and personal opinion on such topics as "why oh why can't Musilms, Christians and Jews just get along!" or "why oh why are Iranian's so hung up over life in America? I just don't get it! *sigh*". One of the larger sections of this (very annoying) sort, are her musings about her parents' work as missionaries during the 1960's. Bird constantly goes on about how unfair she thinks it is that Christian missionaries would dare to force their religion on Muslims, with a tone that gives me the impression that she thinks she is a superior person for thinking like that.
These unnecessary insertions give me the sense that Bird sees herself as better than both Iranians and American's. Better than Iranian's because she does not live in what she concludes is an 'oppressive' society, and better than American's because she lived in Iran, has traveled 'oh so bravely' there, and is thus enlightened by the fact.
I only give this book three stars, as the above issues sometimes seriously distracted from what would have been an incredible book had they not been there. For the most part, Neither East or West is filled with amazing descriptions and conversations, and things I didn't know about Iran, despite having heard many stories form my fathers side of the family, who lived there for quite sometime when he was younger.
If you can stand the author's narcissistic attitude and outright whiny complaints that appear every so often, but not so often as to ruin the entire book, I highly recommend Neither East nor West.




If there is one thing I'll note as a possible criticism of Bird's incredibly interesting book it is her willingness to excuse all the "Death to America!" rhetoric she encounters among Iranians of all ages and backgrounds. As I read and re-read her descriptions of even the most progressive college students engaging in this chant, a national institution it seems, I could never quite decide if Bird was brushing this attitude off as harmless noise, or if she was truly telling it like it was when she'd write of how students and everyday Iranians would almost apologetically tell her, "Oh, it's nothing personal, we hate your evil government, not you as an American." Maybe Iranians truly feel that way, but hasn't it been attitude of bigots through time to claim to hate a race, or religion, or a people, and yet to love certain individuals within it?
There's no denying Iran is a richly textured nation with an intricately layered culture and many perfectly kind and good people within it, and Bird showed that very well, but I do wonder how far Americans or anyone in today's global society can go in excusing citizens of a country whose favorite collective chant calls for the destructive of another nation. All that aside, I have never read a book that made me feel more like I was actually experiencing today's Iran first-hand. Christiane Bird is great!








I enjoyed reading it very much, and I think many others will find it an interesting view of an interesting country




I would recommend Terrence Ward's Searching for Hassan before this.
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